Clean forms, refined lines, silent expressiveness. Harmony between comfort, practicality, and style is the the signature aesthetic of August, the clothing line created by Äli Kargoja. Born and raised in Talinn, Estonia, Äli created her brand after graduation from Studio Berçot Fashion School in Paris and work at the studios of Nicolas Andreas Taralis and Maison Martin Margiela.
August is both timeless and very modern, suitable for anyone appreciating clean forms and sustainability in clothing design. Brand puts a lot of thought into careful choice of natural materials and pays attention to each step of the manufacturing process.
Cornerstone of August’s fabric sourcing are Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified fabric mills and sustainable fabric fairs where Kargoja selects materials such as bamboo, organic cotton and bamboo silk that give pieces refined yet modern look.
The latest collection combines elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Grounded in seasonless neutrals like ivory, deep blue and black, comfortable, large silhuettes reimagine classic styles, giving them new relevance and contemporary character. We talked to Äli about her personal style, design process and living in Tallinn.
Can you share with us a bit about your background?
I was born and raised in the capital city of Estonia, Tallinn. I have a law degree, but I didn’t really see myself in that field of work and realized at some point that I have no reason to not to do what I really love. Life presented me with an opportunity to move to Paris after my law studies. I studied fashion design at the renown Studio Bercot for 3 years. I was lucky to have gained experience at the ateliers of Nicolas Andreas Taralis (Paris) and Maison Martin Margiela (NYC). I moved back to my home city to pursue the dream of creating my own label, this is the impulse from witch August was born 3 years ago. I still travel a lot for work but my base remains in Tallinn.
Tell us more about fashion industry in Estonia.
Estonia is a young country and it took time for the local fashion industry to raise its head. There are a lot of talented and creative people in this small country. I am happy to have noticed lately a booming tendency among local young designers giving it a chance to create something they love. It has been so far the industrial side of fashion that has generated more important volumes, as the price/quality ratio for production is very reasonable in Estonia. We have a lot of leading Scandinavian brands producing their collections here.
What is the street style like in Tallinn?
Tallinn is a calm, green, beautiful city by the Baltic sea. Perfect place to gather the thoughts in this quietness and create. The street style is an interesting combination of Scandinavian minimalism and lavish Slavic style.
Latest collection seeks to create an elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Comfortable, summery and large silhouettes in a combination of ivory, deep blue and black color.
What inspires you in design and in life in general?
Everything around me can be a source of inspiration, the impulse can come from a walk in the forest or from a beautiful piece of music even. In life I am most inspired by the people I love, they help me to grow and be a better person everyday.
How would you define your personal style or approach to fashion?
My personal style is rather modest, I have to admit I am a lazy dresser. A black oversized turtleneck pullover, my black jeans and white trainers have been the first choice if I have to throw on something quickly. I am am also very lucky to be able to wear my own designs. So I would have to say my style approach is based on comfort and practicality rather than to stand out thru my clothing.
What has influenced your approach?
My personal comfort as well as lack of time to show too much attention to combining fashion forward, eye-catching sets every time I walk out of my door. This is why I prefer timeless high quality clothing in designing clothes as well as choosing them from my closet.
What is your process of making collection?
Not much different than from other designers I guess. I research, make a selection of the fabrics that somehow appeal to me that season, pour all the ideas on a paper, harmonize the color palette and then edit, edit edit.
Tell us more about your ss16 collection.
This collection seeks to create an elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Comfortable, summery and large silhouettes in a combination of ivory, deep blue and black color. Mixture of different natural materials from GOTS certified organic cotton to the light bamboo silk.
If you could choose one favorite item from the collection which one would it be & why?
Its hard to point out one particular item, I would have to go with the pieces from our bamboo jersey. Beautiful, easy basics in a lovely soft bamboo fabric that I myself wear daily.
What is your opinion of fashion system today?
I find that the industry in general is way too profit-driven.
What is sustainable luxury for you?
I haven’t really thought about these 2 words together in 1 sentence. The aim of August is to provide approachable, beautiful, mindfully made garments. The word luxury has somewhat unapproachable sound to it. In another hand, luxury in a sense of buying less and better goes hand in hand with the idea of sustainability.
Milano design week is one of the biggest and most important fairs in the trade. It has been around since 1961, with the original focus on Italian furniture. The trade show grew in size and diversity over the years. Design week can be roughly divided in two main events. The ‘Salone del Mobile’ and ‘Fuorisalone’ [...]
Harmony between comfort, practicality and style is the signature aesthetic of Evgenija Zafirovska, young clothing brand created by Macedonian designer of the same name. The Ljubljana-based womenswear brand is defined by its fusion of craftsmanship and attention to detail, with a sense of refined ease. Inspiration drawn from the contemporary architecture is combined with an [...]
Beginnings are always the hardest. When starting to decorate your apartment it is difficult to know how to start. We were told to follow 9 simple steps. And they worked, every single time. The philosophy behind them is to create a living space that feels unique, tells something about the owner, and mixes and matches pieces that you would [...]
Effortlessly modern, comfortable, yet distinctive. There are few pieces in our wardrobes that need to meet higher expectations than lingerie. Beside flattering the body, the most intimate layers also need to support us in daily activities, impart confidence while staying comfortable. Fortunately new generation of designers is approaching these wardrobe foundations with fresh inspirations [...]
Introducing August: Modern Simplicity by Äli Kargoja
Eve Short Sleeve Top, Astra Trousers by August
Clean forms, refined lines, silent expressiveness. Harmony between comfort, practicality, and style is the the signature aesthetic of August, the clothing line created by Äli Kargoja. Born and raised in Talinn, Estonia, Äli created her brand after graduation from Studio Berçot Fashion School in Paris and work at the studios of Nicolas Andreas Taralis and Maison Martin Margiela.
August is both timeless and very modern, suitable for anyone appreciating clean forms and sustainability in clothing design. Brand puts a lot of thought into careful choice of natural materials and pays attention to each step of the manufacturing process.
Cornerstone of August’s fabric sourcing are Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified fabric mills and sustainable fabric fairs where Kargoja selects materials such as bamboo, organic cotton and bamboo silk that give pieces refined yet modern look.
The latest collection combines elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Grounded in seasonless neutrals like ivory, deep blue and black, comfortable, large silhuettes reimagine classic styles, giving them new relevance and contemporary character. We talked to Äli about her personal style, design process and living in Tallinn.
Äli Kargoja, designer
Can you share with us a bit about your background?
I was born and raised in the capital city of Estonia, Tallinn. I have a law degree, but I didn’t really see myself in that field of work and realized at some point that I have no reason to not to do what I really love. Life presented me with an opportunity to move to Paris after my law studies. I studied fashion design at the renown Studio Bercot for 3 years. I was lucky to have gained experience at the ateliers of Nicolas Andreas Taralis (Paris) and Maison Martin Margiela (NYC). I moved back to my home city to pursue the dream of creating my own label, this is the impulse from witch August was born 3 years ago. I still travel a lot for work but my base remains in Tallinn.
Tell us more about fashion industry in Estonia.
Estonia is a young country and it took time for the local fashion industry to raise its head. There are a lot of talented and creative people in this small country. I am happy to have noticed lately a booming tendency among local young designers giving it a chance to create something they love. It has been so far the industrial side of fashion that has generated more important volumes, as the price/quality ratio for production is very reasonable in Estonia. We have a lot of leading Scandinavian brands producing their collections here.
What is the street style like in Tallinn?
Tallinn is a calm, green, beautiful city by the Baltic sea. Perfect place to gather the thoughts in this quietness and create. The street style is an interesting combination of Scandinavian minimalism and lavish Slavic style.
Nora dress
Latest collection seeks to create an elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Comfortable, summery and large silhouettes in a combination of ivory, deep blue and black color.
Lola dress
What inspires you in design and in life in general?
Everything around me can be a source of inspiration, the impulse can come from a walk in the forest or from a beautiful piece of music even. In life I am most inspired by the people I love, they help me to grow and be a better person everyday.
How would you define your personal style or approach to fashion?
My personal style is rather modest, I have to admit I am a lazy dresser. A black oversized turtleneck pullover, my black jeans and white trainers have been the first choice if I have to throw on something quickly. I am am also very lucky to be able to wear my own designs. So I would have to say my style approach is based on comfort and practicality rather than to stand out thru my clothing.
What has influenced your approach?
My personal comfort as well as lack of time to show too much attention to combining fashion forward, eye-catching sets every time I walk out of my door. This is why I prefer timeless high quality clothing in designing clothes as well as choosing them from my closet.
Ivi Sleeveless Top, Riti Skirt
What is your process of making collection?
Not much different than from other designers I guess. I research, make a selection of the fabrics that somehow appeal to me that season, pour all the ideas on a paper, harmonize the color palette and then edit, edit edit.
Tell us more about your ss16 collection.
This collection seeks to create an elegant contrast between soft feminine style and sporty elements. Comfortable, summery and large silhouettes in a combination of ivory, deep blue and black color. Mixture of different natural materials from GOTS certified organic cotton to the light bamboo silk.
If you could choose one favorite item from the collection which one would it be & why?
Its hard to point out one particular item, I would have to go with the pieces from our bamboo jersey. Beautiful, easy basics in a lovely soft bamboo fabric that I myself wear daily.
What is your opinion of fashion system today?
I find that the industry in general is way too profit-driven.
What is sustainable luxury for you?
I haven’t really thought about these 2 words together in 1 sentence. The aim of August is to provide approachable, beautiful, mindfully made garments. The word luxury has somewhat unapproachable sound to it. In another hand, luxury in a sense of buying less and better goes hand in hand with the idea of sustainability.
Saara Dress
By Sandra Gubenšek. Photos by Studio August.
Related Posts
Milano Design Week: Utopiast Favourites
Introducing: Evgenija Zafirovska
The Interior Reinvented: 9 Simple Revamping Steps
Effortlessly Modern: Intimate Layers by 05 Studio