Tailoring Remastered:

The Easy Sophistication of Athru

“What sets Athru apart is the harmony between simplicity and bold details, high-quality materials, and attention to detail,” explains Denis Zheleva, a Bulgarian fashion designer and founder of Athru.

The brand new Sofia-based womenswear label is distinguished by its emphasis on craftsmanship and a minimalist aesthetic paired with a dash of eccentricity. The results are unique, utterly wearable, and timeless pieces designed to make their wearer feel both empowered and beautiful.
To mark the launch of the Athru collection at utopiast, we spoke with Denis about her creative process, hardships of building a sustainable fashion business, and challenges she faced launching her first collection.
Denis Zheleva, founder of Athru
Please share with us a bit about your background. What drew you to the fashion industry, and how did you start your brand?

From a very young age, I was always drawn to creativity and design. I loved to draw, and I would make dresses out of anything I could find—whether it was toilet paper or my grandmother’s old tablecloth. That early passion for creating something beautiful from unexpected materials sparked my love for fashion.

Growing up, I spent a lot of time with my father and admired how he built his own business from the ground up. His entrepreneurial spirit deeply inspired me, and I knew that one day I would create something of my own. By the time I was in high school, I was certain that fashion was my path.

Although my parents were initially hesitant—especially because fashion is still an emerging industry in Bulgaria—I was determined to pursue my passion. So, I took a leap and moved to the United Kingdom on my own to study Fashion Management at Nottingham Trent University. My time there confirmed that fashion was my path and the business I wanted to build.

The turning point came in 2019, when I was introduced to the concept of Sustainability in Practice. I knew then that I didn’t just want to create beautiful designs; I wanted to build a brand that was ethical, sustainable, and conscious of its impact on the environment. That moment shaped the foundation of my business and continues to guide every decision I make today.

How would you define your particular style or approach to design? What is unique about ATHRU pieces?

My personal style has always been defined by minimalism with a touch of eccentricity—a balance I’ve infused into my brand’s aesthetic. While I plan to explore and innovate in the future, I believe this minimalist foundation, complemented by bold details, will always be central to the brand’s identity. This harmony between simplicity and unexpected details, crafted from high-quality materials and handmade with care, is what sets Athru apart. Each piece is designed to make its wearer feel both empowered and beautiful.

“This harmony between simplicity and unexpected details, crafted from high-quality materials and handmade with care, is what sets Athru apart. Each piece is designed to make its wearer feel both empowered and beautiful.”

Denis Zheleva, founder of Athru
What’s your creative process like? What aspect of creating the pieces fascinates you the most—conceptualization, actual creation, or the end result?

Inspiration comes from everywhere. I love to observe, and often, ideas will strike unexpectedly. I make sure to write them down, and later, I’ll go through my notes, sit down, and begin sketching. The creation process is truly what I love most. From sketching designs and experimenting with fabrics to shaping the brand itself, every step feels incredibly fulfilling. There’s something magical about watching everything come together into one final, completed piece. Moreover, seeing people wear my clothes and hearing their thoughts warms my heart and makes the journey meaningful.

Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword for your brand; it’s part of its DNA. How do you weave sustainability into every aspect of your design and production processes?

While creating Athru, I realized just how challenging it is to build a fully sustainable fashion brand, and I came to understand why the industry still struggles to implement it effectively. Sourcing fabrics that are both ethical and sustainable, along with eco-friendly packaging, presents many obstacles. High-quality, ethically made materials are often expensive, making the process even more difficult. I believe true sustainability is rooted in the creation of timeless, enduring pieces. It’s not solely about using eco-friendly materials, but about designing garments that possess lasting quality. For me, sustainability is defined by producing fewer, impeccably crafted items that transcend trends and withstand the passage of time.

“I believe true sustainability is rooted in the creation of timeless, enduring pieces. It’s not solely about using eco-friendly materials, but about designing garments that possess lasting quality.”

Denis Zheleva, founder of Athru
How do you go about choosing your materials and manufacturers?

The first step in my process is selecting the fabrics I want for my collection, followed by thorough research. Transparency is key for me, so before placing any orders, I always reach out to manufacturers directly. I love having conversations and online meetings to learn more about their production processes. It’s important to me that every fabric I work with is ethically and sustainably produced, so I always ask for certifications and speak with the owners or managers to ensure these standards are met.

If you could choose one favorite item from your recent collection, which one would it be and why? What makes it stand out amongst the collection?

I love every piece in the first collection, but if I had to choose a favorite, it would be the Triangle Taupe Melange Trousers. I’m obsessed with both the color and the silhouette. I love wearing trousers, and these ones are incredibly beautiful and comfortable—when you wear them, it feels like you’re wrapped in clouds.

Do you have any advice for people starting their own fashion brand/business?

My advice would be to stay patient and never give up on your dream, even if results aren’t immediate. When challenges arise, remember there’s always a solution—just keep searching for it. Trust that everything happens at the right time, and your moment will come too.

By Sandra Gubenšek
Photographed by Margarita Tentyukova

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